Between February and March, at the foot of Mount Etna, a tradition is repeated: every year, almost uninterrupted, since the distant 16th century. It is the Carnival of Acireale, the mardi gras festival that lights up the Sicilian coastal night, often competing with the volcano’s lava fountains in the background. The heart of this baroque city, austere and conservative in appearance, is suddenly transformed and, for a few days each year, it lets all restraints go. If you want to admire it on this occasion, land at Catania Airport (CTA) and let our chauffeured vehicles take you on a discovery of the lava cliffs, 18th-century baroque architecture, elegant palaces… and marvelous papier-mâché floats.
The Baroque Pearl
Acireale is a baroque pearl that rivals Noto or the historic center of Catania. The city arose on the lava plateau known as “La Timpa” in the 1400s, on the edge of a large forest populated by travelers and criminals. The presence of a tavern and a small chapel encouraged the formation of an initial settlement.
Over the centuries, the chapel became a church (now the Cathedral of the Annunciation), and the old tavern became one of the historic café-restaurants in the center. All around, a city of 55,000 inhabitants grew up, rising from its ashes. After the devastating earthquake of 1693, the rubble of the old houses was replaced by a then-new and original architecture: the Baroque style! The masterfully carved stone took the shape of faces, plants, arches, and coats of arms.
Walking through Acireale is always a pleasure, in any season. In summer, an ancient carriage path built during the Spanish era (17th century) zigzags down from the plateau and leads conveniently to the seaside village of Santa Maria la Scala and its rocky beach.
The Most Beautiful Carnival in Sicily
The inhabitants of Acireale (who are called acèsi) like to say that their mardi gras feast is the “Most Beautiful Carnival in Sicily” and for a long time… almost the entire 20th century… it was also the third most beautiful carnival in Italy, after Venice and Viareggio.
The tradition originated in the Middle Ages and has evolved over time. From simple, irreverent masks, worn to mock the “rich gentlemen”, it evolved to decorated carts, then to cars topped with papier-mâché installations, and finally, today, to actual floats. These are enormous, spectacular scenes, with gigantic characters and computer-generated movements that—unlike many other carnivals—can also parade at night thanks to spectacular lighting.
The papier-mâché floats are flanked by other structures, the “flowered machines” made of thousands of flowers and plants that reproduce incredible scenes and faces. For about five years now, these “machines” have paraded during a special festival dedicated to them (which takes place in May). The carnival also includes a shorter rerun in August.
The Etna Carnival
When you come to Acireale to enjoy the carnival celebrations, you’ll truly be a stone’s throw from Etna. The city is just 30 km from the base of the cable car at the summit of the volcano, and it takes less than an hour by car to reach it. So, between parades and masquerades, treat yourself to a trip to discover the volcano. In winter, you might be lucky enough to see it completely covered in snow and then you shall even experience skiing or sledding down its white slopes. When Etna is erupting, admiring it from the top of the bell towers of Acireale’s cathedral is a unique experience. Imagine the scene… the fire of Mount Etna before you, and below, at the foot of the towers, the colors and music of the carnival!
Tips for you
Acireale Carnival—in its winter version—is a paid entry festival. Therefore, the entire perimeter of the historic center is closed off by gates with controlled access. Always be sure to buy tickets in advance so to avoid long lines. And always travel with your documents handy in case you need to reach facilities outside the circuit. For more information on prices and the program, you can contact the official carnival websites.
