A holiday in Lisbon can also be inspired by the sound of Fado, the famous melancholic and romantic dance that has become a hallmark of this city and the whole of Portugal. Named a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2011, Fado is played with the rhythm guitar, the Portuguese guitar (12 strings), and one or more string basses. You can find three types of Fados in Portugal: Lisbon-style Fado, Coimbra-style Fado, and Porto-style Fado. But while the melodies associated with Coimbra and Porto range to the extremes (the former is poetic and traditional, the latter more lively and modern), the Lisbon Fado is a mixture, evolving into a warmer popular style. It’s no coincidence that they play it in small, intimate venues, called “tascas,” often associated with restaurants or inns.
Discovering Fado in Lisbon
Your Fado journey in Lisbon will revolve around three very specific neighborhoods: Barrio Alto, Alfama, and Chiado. To reach them, after landing at Lisbon Airport (LIS), you can choose one of Transfeero’s fast and convenient services, including the use of a private driver as your tourist guide. Once you’ve reached your destination, however, treat yourself to the pleasure of exploring the neighborhoods’ secrets… on foot!
Barrio Alto: the Fado of survivors
Barrio Alto, or the “upper neighborhood”, is a survivor. This part of the city was the only one to remain standing after the devastating earthquake of 1755, and for this reason it has retained its elegant, ancient look. Recently becoming a major tourist attraction, its cobbled streets have been further embellished with flowers, festoons, and brightly colored houses.
The notes of Fado, here in Barrio Alto, resound at Tasca do Chico, at the historic and prestigious Adega Machado, and also at Tasca A Severa (dedicated to Maria Severa, the first Fado dancer to become an international star).
As you wander around these famous venues, you can stop to admire the view of the city from the panoramic São Pedro de Alcântara Park, where the delightful colorful funicular arrives; or you can detour to visit the Pharmacy Museum; or you can admire the 18th-century buildings like Palácio do Correio Velho or Colégio dos Inglesinhos. Don’t miss the Church of San Roque (or Sao Roque) and the precious pre-earthquake artworks it houses.
Alfama: an Arabic Fado
The Alfama neighborhood borders the Barrio Alto and has also retained its pre-earthquake 18th-century structure almost intact. Its name (from the Arabic al-Hamma, meaning “the baths”) bears witness to a rich and ancient history that today is entirely at the service of tourists.
Here, to listen to Fado, you must dine at Mesa de Frades, a restaurant-tasca located inside a deconsecrated church where this dance has become a truly sacred ceremony! Alternatively, meet at the Clube de Fado, one of the oldest venues for this dance tradition.
The Alfama neighborhood slopes down the hillside to the sea, or rather, to the banks of the Tagus River. At the top, you can’t miss the beautiful São Jorge Castle, a medieval castle with a fairytale feel! Strolling through Alfama, you’ll also encounter Lisbon Cathedral, the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora, the Church of Santa Engràcia, and several spectacular viewpoints, including the famous Miradouro Santa Luzìa.
In Chiado: the people’s Fado
Chiado is a neighborhood that extends between the hill and the sea, between Barrio Alto and Baixa Lisboa. It revolves around the large square from which it takes its name, which—it seems—once housed a famous inn run in fact by Don Chiado! A former working-class area, over time it has become a meeting place for poets, writers, actors, and musicians. So, here, music was born from popular inspiration!
There are many “tascas de fado” here in Chiado, but the most famous is Povo. While this venue maintains the traditional Fado atmosphere, it has a more modern feel and a livelier style that appeals especially to young people.
People come to Chiado to admire the Baroque architecture: the palaces around Largo del Chiado, the Casa do Ferreira, the Carmo Monastery located in the square of the same name where in spring the jacaranda trees shower purple petals everywhere. Also visit the Valadares Palace located next to the funicular’s starting point. The Church of Nossa Senhora da Encarnação is also a beautiful destination. If you want to relax while shopping and enjoying delicious food, stroll along the long and elegant Via do Carmo.
