Every year in Italy, the great debate erupts: Halloween or All Saints’ Day? American pumpkins or our traditional “sweets of the Dead Souls”? And every year, one tries to banish the other, one tries to overshadow the other, when the two holidays can coexist perfectly well. Halloween, in fact, is “the eve of All Saints’ Day” and does not tread on the toes of any Catholic tradition. It is an integral part of it. However, if you live abroad and are unfamiliar with the tradition of All Saints’ Day and the Dead Souls’ Day in Italy, it’s worth booking in one of these places where the November 1st and 2nd celebrations are still deeply felt. Besides Halloween.
The November 2nd celebration in Italy
For many centuries in Italy, the November 2nd celebration was dedicated to the memory of deceased loved ones. After All Saints’ Day on the first, people paid homage to the Souls of their dead relatives. They did it with prayers, visits to the cemetery, and—to lighten the heavy atmosphere—giving toys and sweets to children. Over time, this holiday was supplanted – at first by the commercial Christmas and then by Halloween itself. Today, however, it is making a comeback. And the markets held on November 2nd, especially in Southern Italy, are a veritable tourist attraction. Here’s where you’ll find the most interesting ones.
November 2nd in Sicily
The markets of November 2nd are widespread throughout Sicily. No matter the location, you’re sure to find them on that day. Typically, the stalls sell traditional sweets made with dried fruit (walnuts, almonds) and chocolate. The so-called “ossi di morto” (deads’ bones) … incredibly hard and sweet caramelized sugar biscuits shaped like skulls, bones, or the faces of saints … are very original.
Among the most beautiful Dead Souls fairs, those in Palermo and Catania are noteworthy for their grandeur and vast selection of goods and products. But the smaller markets in Syracuse, Acireale (Catania), and Nicosia (Enna) are also worth visiting, especially for the evocative architectural backdrop. The main airports for Sicily are Catania (CTA) and Palermo (PMO), from which all other destinations are easily accessible.
Uànema: the Neapolitan festival of the “Other Lives”
The city of Naples has focused entirely on inclusion. Here, Halloween immediately became part of Italian tradition, merging with celebrations of the dead souls. The event “Uànema: the Festival of the Other Lives” (https://www.comune.napoli.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/52614) engages visitors in a series of activities related to mystery, death, and beauty. Landing at Naples Airport (NAP), thanks to convenient private transfers with a chauffeur, you can be accompanied to visit local markets, themed concerts, and even guided tours of the hypogeums of “Naples Underground”. All this happens between October 30th and November 3rd.
Orsara Bonfires in Apulia
In Orsara, in the province of Foggia, nestled in the Mediterranean region of Puglia (Apulia), November 2nd is celebrated according to ancient rituals very similar to those of Halloween. The people light fires on street corners so to “show the way to the souls,” similar as they do in America with pumpkin lanterns. With evocative performances and food tours discovering the unique flavours of Puglia, you’ll experience a truly original commemoration of the dead souls! To reach Orsara from distant places, the nearest airport is Bari (BRI).
Perugia: the oldest markets
The city of Perugia, in Umbria, probably boasts the oldest Dead Souls’ Markets in Italy. They were mentioned in chronicles as early as 1260 and were initially agricultural fairs. At the end of the harvest, farmers and ranchers would gather in the square to sell their wares. Over the centuries, the celebration has changed. It has transformed into an event to commemorate the beloved people who died, complemented by toy and sweets markets. In recent times, events such as concerts, street shows, amusement parks, and circus games have been added to the markets. None of this detracts from the deepest and most religious aspect of the festival, with the city’s medieval churches open for worship and to tourists. Perugia Airport (PEG) welcomes anyone wishing to experience this autumnal experience in Umbria’s beautiful capital.
Animeddas of Sardinia
Sardinia invented Halloween even before the Celts. In fact, for over 2,000 years, the “Night of Souls” has been celebrated on the island, between October 31st and November 1st. Celebrated again today after a period of neglect, the Animeddas Festival now lasts three days, from October 31st to November 2nd. Tradition is strongest and most deeply felt in the heart of the island, and among the villages of Barbagia it is not uncommon to witness events, markets, and celebrations that evoke truly ancient echoes linked to the memory of the deceased. If you decide Sardinia will be your place …remember you can easily reach the Barbagia district from Olbia Airport (OLB).
