In the heart of the Aegean Sea, exactly halfway between Greece and Turkey and far from the hustle and bustle of mass tourism, lies a small archipelago that preserves the most authentic essence of the Greek islands: the Small Cyclades. Among these islands, Schoinousa (or Schinoussa) holds a special place despite being one of the smallest. A small green triangle in the middle of the blue, a peaceful, simple place, inhabited by “authentic Greeks” … it nevertheless offers spectacular views and pristine beaches that few will ever discover. If you venture to these lands (you arrive by hydrofoil, after landing at the international airports of Naxos, Mykonos, or Santorini), be as discreet and kind as the place that welcomes you. Don’t bring noise where there is silence, and don’t seek the usual entertainment where you should only appreciate little things.
The islands called Small Cyclades
The Small Cyclades are an archipelago located southeast of Naxos and administratively belong to the larger Cyclades group. The main inhabited islands of the archipelago are Schoinousa, Iraklia, Koufonissi and Donoussa. In addition, numerous smaller islets, often uninhabited, discreetly dot the sea. Despite their proximity to the more famous islands—Mykonos, Naxos, and Santorini—the Small Cyclades have retained a much simpler and more authentic character.
Schoinousa is one of the smallest islands in the archipelago, with an area of just a few square kilometers and a very small permanent population. Its uniqueness lies precisely in its compact size: there are no large tourist centers, crowded streets, or frenetic nightlife here. Visitors are greeted by an atmosphere of paths, dry-stone walls, white houses with colorful windows, and open views of the sea. Time seems to pass more slowly, following the rhythm of the seasons, fishing, and agriculture.
Discovering the island
The island’s main town is Chora (also called Hora), a small, traditional village perched on an elevated position. Strolling through its narrow streets, you’ll encounter family-run tavernas, small guesthouses, and quiet squares where locals gather during the cooler hours of the day. The architectural simplicity, typical of the Cycladic style, adds to the place’s charm: whitewashed walls, domes, and colorful details create an atmosphere suspended between past and present.
Schoinousa is proud of its beaches, especially because they are truly pristine and wild in their purity, even in the busiest areas. Almost all of the beaches are located in romantic bays of surprising beauty: Livadi is one of the most famous, golden sand and calm, transparent waters, ideal for swimming and relaxing. Tsigouri and Almyros offer more secluded settings, perfect for those who want to spend days away from the hustle and bustle. Psili Ammos is a small stretch of fine sand that competes for the title of most charming beach with Lioliu Bay and Gerolimnionas Cove. Many bays can also be reached via scenic trails, making every walk an opportunity to discover hidden corners of the island.
Schoinousa, a green island
Schoinousa’s natural landscape is characterized by typical Mediterranean vegetation: fragrant shrubs, olive trees, fig trees, and plants resistant to the dry Aegean climate. The island is particularly popular with hikers, as its size allows for easy exploration. Walking through the hills and along the coast allows for spectacular views of the neighboring islands and discover places where the silence is interrupted only by the wind and the sound of the sea.
What experiences will you enjoy at Schoinousa?
Schoinousa isn’t just a seaside destination. Its small size and unspoiled nature also favor hiking and trekking on trails amidst lush greenery. You can practice all kinds of sports here: running, cycling, walking, diving… and you can enjoy the typical tastes of “Ancient Greek” gastronomy .
Schoinousa’s tavernas offer simple dishes prepared with local ingredients: fresh fish, local cheeses, vegetables grown on the island, legumes, and recipes passed down through generations. The island’s cuisine, like that of all the Small Cyclades, reflects the history of communities accustomed to living in harmony with limited resources, transforming a few ingredients into flavorful dishes.
Book a boat tour of the island. You can drive it yourself if you’re skilled, or rely on local tour operators (often based in Naxos). The boat trip will allow you to discover hidden and remote places, taking great photos from afar, and admire Schoinousa as you’ve probably never seen it before. If you like dancing, there’s only one musical oasis on the island: Vrahos, a venue located inland where you can have fun without disturbing anyone!
Schoinousa and its… sisters!
The other islands of the archipelago offer equally fascinating experiences. Koufonissi is the island of the rich people, the most snobbish and in step with the times. Famous for its spectacular beaches and turquoise waters, it relies heavily on shops and tourist events to attract attention. Iraklia retains an even more wild and pristine atmosphere. Here, they call it “the sweet island” because it is intimate, secluded, quiet, perfect for couples!
Donoussa, on the other hand, combines small villages, natural trails, and quiet bays, attracting travelers seeking authenticity. It is trying to open up to mass tourism without overdoing it, and provides all the services that Schoinousa may lack. Perpetually chasing trends, it perhaps wants to imitate Koufonissi’s more “worldly” neighbor.
You don’t need a reason to experience this paradise
Schoinousa and the Small Cyclades therefore represent an authentic Greece, made of simplicity, hospitality, and natural beauty. These are places where the value of a trip lies not in the quantity of attractions to visit, but in the quality of the experiences: a swim in a clear sea, a dinner under the stars, a leisurely stroll, or a conversation with the locals. In these small Aegean islands, you can still sense the true spirit of the Cyclades, that of a life lived to the core and deeply connected to the sea.
You don’t need a particular reason to choose Schoinousa, or one of its “sister” islands, as a vacation spot. You don’t have to convince yourself that you’ll still have fun even without the discos, contests, and fashion shows. If you’re coming to Greece for that, you’re not in the right spirit anyway. You come to Schoinousa if you want to stop time and learn to breathe in a different atmosphere… Welcome!
